3/11/2023 0 Comments Older freelancer modsSee the photo below! This is another trick to make lens swaps faster, since you won’t need to adjust your follow focus back and forth on the rig. Last point on the focus gears: the same way you always want to have a constant outside diameter, you want to place them on the lenses at the same distance from the mount. Be patient, use heat and sandpaper, and you’ll get there. The rubber grip on the focus ring of the lenses is awesome because it prevents the gears from sliding, but it’s also a pain because it makes the fitting a lot harder. You have to keep wiggling them slowly, side by side, until they are in place. Plus, fitting these is never a “one-slip move”. They dilate quite a bit and fit much more easily. Another trick is to heat them up with a blow dryer or even your house heater. So I sand the inside down a bit and try again. In my experience, the gears never fit on the first try. I like to add 0.3mm to the measurement to give me a little wiggle room after printing. To fit the barrel of the lens, use a caliper and be precise about it. This will ensure a constant outside diameter, which means you don’t have to adjust your follow focus every time you change lenses. When designing your focus gears, keep the number of teeth constant for all the lenses. The process turned out alright and the gears worked great, but later on I learned some useful tricks. ![]() I didn’t think too much about them when designing, they just needed to fit around the ring, and our printer was painfully slow (M3D, I’m looking at you). Still on the DIY train, a friend and I had just bought a 3d-printer, so I started making my own focus gears. ![]() You can tell them apart because MM have their last aperture number painted green, and they have a small tab on the mount that doesn’t exist on AE’s. AE lenses also show ninja-star bokeh when stopped down, which is a major turnoff for some folks. It’s agreed that MM lenses perform better and have cleaner results than AE lenses, they’re also less prone to flaring. The first one is AE and the second one is MM. As they were designed for photography, they have clicked stops, which has to be dealt with, but they all feature non-rotating front elements, which is a very valuable feature these days with vari NDs. Here are some things I got from it:Ĭontax Zeiss lenses were designed for 35mm full frame, which means they’ll cover all the way up to Vistavision sensors on modern cameras and anything smaller. It’s been there for quite a while and I have checked up on it countless times to help me make decisions. If you wanna follow this path, there’s no way to dodge reading the Survival Guide. The main difference being that a normal human can afford Contax Zeiss but not Leicas. ![]() These lenses thread the fine line between organic and sharp, a line as thin as depth of field on an 85/1.2 wide open, only second to Leica. Easy to see which one I loved the most back in 2015Īfter I got the five Contax I went to look for more info and found Nick Morrison’s Contax Zeiss Survival Guide at REDUser. Original Contax Zeiss set on the left, Soviet set on the right.
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